Permanent hair straightening is a chemical hairdressing service that relies on the normal structure of hair and understanding of the changes take place to the hair shaft when undertaking hair loss treatments.
Hair strands are made up of many layers. The core center is the medulla which is surrounded by the cortex. This is where the changes required for successful permanent hair straightening need to take place. The successful disconnection and reconnection of the disulphide bonds in the cortex is what makes the permanent hair straightening procedure successful or unsuccessful. When the medulla or cortex strength, shape or structure have been compromised a normally safe hair straightening service can go very wrong.
Hair loss treatments are used to repair hair thinning that can take place after diffuse hair loss. Hair thinning results from the hair strands not growing normally as per your genetic hair type. The hair cell and hair cycle need to be corrected for the hair layers to return to normal.
Most people turning to hair straightening do so because of ‘frizzy hair’ or changes to the natural curl type. If your hair has changed from your original ‘hair type’ it is not normal and something has happened to your hair cell. If this is the case, you need to make sure you have a microscopic diagnosis of your hair strand and hair structure before any hair straightening or hair relaxing service.
Keratin coating hair relaxing and permanent hair straightening rely on hair strands that have all properties of normal hair structure and will result in disaster and hair breakage when there is hair strand thinning you did not know about. This type of hair strand thinning can only be diagnosed by a hair specialist (Trichologist) with a microscope; your hairdresser cannot see this and has no way of knowing if your hair strand is normal or not.
Another cause of hair strand thinning is Female Pattern Thinning (FMPT) from Dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This only occurs in a specific pattern and is common in the recessions of the scalp. The thinning hairs in affected areas transition slowly from normal sized terminal hairs with all the essential layers to baby fine vellus hairs with no structure and no layers. Curly hair affected in this way will most definitely always turn to frizzy hair and the worst thing you can do to your hair is any hair straightening unless it is completely understood by your hair straightening specialist.
Always check your hair structure if your hair has changed or if you are in doubt. Consult a hair specialist ‘Trichologist’ who uses a microscope to be sure the health of your hair strands are normal before having any hair straightening service that WILL damage your hair, if the hair strand layers are not intact. This includes all keratin relaxing hair treatments.
Yours in hair health, hair loss treatments and safe hair straightening,
Carolyn Evans-Frost I.A.T. Trichologist, Absolique Hair Health Clinic